Happy St. Patrick's Day!!🍀 Friday March 17 was a mainly cloudy day, with a bit of rain in the early evening. High of 16C. We headed down to the Seine, passing a farmers' market in Place Monge, which has been running since 1921. It has around 40 stalls which offer meat, fish, fruit and vegetables, cheeses and flowers.
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| Busy Friday marché |
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| Fish |
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| Flowers too |
Our first stop was the Maison Européenne de la Photographie (MEP), one of our favourite photography museums. It is in the Marais (4th arrondissement) quite close to the Seine. We went to see the Zanele Muholi exhibit. This is the first retrospective in France devoted to Muholi, an internationally renowned South African photographer and activist whose work documents and celebrates the Black LGBTQIA+ community. Zanele Muholi defines themselves as non-binary and uses the pronouns they/them/themselves which the exhibit and I will also use.
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| Poster on the outside of the museum |
Before starting the main exhibit, there was small exhibit entitled:
Jürgen Schadeberg's, Apartheid which featured a number of his photographs from the MEP collections, which documented apartheid in South Africa. Schadeberg was born in Berlin in 1931 and began his career as a photographer for a press agency in Hamburg. In 1950, he left Germany to join his mother who had emigrated to South Africa. His arrival coincided with the beginning of apartheid (1948-1991) which established racial segregation laws.
Having suffered from Nazi ideology during his youth, he committed himself to documenting the cultural, artistic, political and social life of the Black community through his photography. He became the artistic director of Drum, the only magazine representing and promoting Black culture. His commitment got him into trouble with the police, and forced him to leave South Africa where he would not return until 20 years later. He went to London in 1964 and then moved to Spain. In 1985, he returned to South Africa where he made a number of documentary films with his wife, Claudia, and continued to train several generations of South African photographers. He returned to Europe in 2007 and died at his home in Valencia, Spain in August 2020.
Drum was created in 1951, and was dedicated to Black urban culture. Until 1965, it was the main publication for South African photojournalists involved in the fight against apartheid. Drum had faded by 1965, but was revived in 1968. In July 2020, the parent company of the magazine announced that the print version of the magazine ceased publication due to Covid.
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| Sol Rachel pose pour la couverture de Drum, Johannesburg, 1958. |
Sophiatown was a historical district of Johannesburg, famous for being the heart of Black artistic and cultural life in the 1950s. In February 1955, the police forcibly expelled the entire Black population of more than 65,000 to the township of Soweto. The neighbourhood was demolished and replaced by white-only housing.
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| Sophiatown 1955 |
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| Sophiatown 1955 |
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Blacks had to carry passes, Johannesburg 1955. The passes would only be abolished in 1986
- such a great photo! |
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| Nelson Mandela in his cell on Robben Island, 1994. Mandela was released from prison in 1990. For this photo, he agreed to pose in his prison uniform in his former cell on Robben Island. |
The Schadeberg exhibit provided a great context for the work of Zenele Muholi. The first room of their retrospective provided a time line for South African history and Muholi's life and work in relation to apartheid and the emergence of anti-racist activism, women's rights and queer movements.
Zenele Muholi was born in 1972 during the height of apartheid in South Africa. Muholi defines themself as a visual activist. Today their work celebrates Black LGBTQIA+ identities in the new era of democracy since the end of apartheid in 1994, while also addressing the ongoing risks that the community faces.
The detailed time line tracked the beginning of formal apartheid when the National Party gained power in 1948; the Prohibition of Mixed Marriages Act (1949); and the 1956 Treason Trial.
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Eli Weinberg, The Treason Trial- showing all the defendants-- he had to photograph the defendants in small groups and then combine them in a photomantage as the government wouldn't let the black and white defendants be seated together for a photograph.
Other key early dates were the 1952 Pass Law which required Black people over 16 to carry pass books; 1953 Bantu Education Act which enforced racially separated schools. In 1954, The Federation of South African Women, a multiracial, anti-apartheid women's organisation was launched.
In 1960, the Sharpeville Massacre took place after a protest against the Pass laws. 60 people were killed and 180 injured. In 1961, South African becomes a Republic and withdraws from the Commonwealth. In 1963, the Rivonia Trial takes place and Nelson Mandala and others are sentenced to life imprisonment.
On July 19, 1972, Zanele Muholi is born in Umlazi, a township in Durban, KwaZulu-Natal.
On June 16, 1976, a photo appears in the World, showing 12 year old Hector Pierterson moments after he was shot and killed by police during a peaceful young student demonstration in Soweto. 176 people were killed and about 1000 injured. The Soweto Uprising and the picture had a galvanising impact and hardened international opinion against the apartheid regime. |
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| Sam Nima (1934-2018) took the photo |
Labour is a key theme for Muholi, whose mother was a domestic worker.
In 1988, the Immorality Amendment Act is expanded to prohibit sex between women. David Goldblatt established the Market Photo Workshop, a photography school in Johannesburg.
President F.W. de Klerk declared the formal end of apartheid. Nelson Mandela and other political prisoners are released. GLOW (the Gay and Lesbian Organisation of the Witwatersrand) organizes the first Pride March in Johannesburg.
Mandala was elected President in 1994 and a new Constitution was passed. It became the first country in the world to constitutionally prohibit discrimination based on sexual orientation.
In 2000, Muholi begins work as a photographer and reporter for Behind the Mask, an online magazine developed to LGBTQIA+ issues in Africa.
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| Early reporting |
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| Work at BTM |
In 2002, Multi co-founded the Forum for the Empowerment of Women, which began as a Black lesbian organization to ensure access to health care, education, employment and housing. In 2003, Muholi completed a course in advanced photography at the Market Photo Workshop in Johannesburg.
In 2004, Muholi's first solo exhibition, Visual Sexuality: Only Half the Picture took place at the Johannesburg Art Gallery. in 2006, the Civil Union Act legalized same-sex marriage.
In 2009, Muholi received an MFA in Documentary Media from Toronto Metropolitan University (formerly Ryerson University).
In 2012, Duduzile Zozo, a 26-year old lesbian is murdered in a brutal hate crime in Thokozo, Gauteng.
In 2012, Muholi's flat in Cape Town was broken into; more than five years of work on hard drives was stolen and has never been recovered. In 2014, Zuholi's Faces and Phases 2006-14 was published. The time line then listed a number of exhibits that Muholi took part in. In 2020, the retrospective "Zanele Muholi" was organized by the Tate Modern and was shown at other venues before reaching MEP. During the Covid pandemic, Muholi expanded their photographic work in a series of self-portrait paintings.
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Odidiva, Johannesburg, after Disebo Maker's funeral, 2014
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The second floor contained the main part of the exhibit entitled
Somnyama Ngonyama, 2012-encours.
It was a series of self-portraits, whose title means Hail the Dark Lioness in isiZulu. Muholi embodies archetypes that explore the ways in which Black women have been depicted throughout history. They are photographed in hotel rooms around the world.
Some of the images call into question systemic violence; others challenge oppressive stereotypes. In others, the artist repurposes banal domestic objects (clothespins, cleaning supplies) to emphasize the sociocultural limitations imposed on Black women. Several portraits depict the character "Bester" paying homage to the artist's mother, who was employed as a domestic worker for a white family for more than 40 years, supporting her eight children (Muholi's father died shortly after they were born).
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| Qiniso, the Sails, Durban 2019 (Qiniso means Truth in isiZulu). Muholi's hair is decorated with Afro combs, an accessory specifically created for Black hair, evoking counterculture, resistance and pride. |
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| MaID I, Syracuse, 2015 |
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| Fisani, Parktown, 2016 - Muholi says that "safety pins equal solitary against transphobia, homophobia. The title means "To wish". |
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| Bester I, Mayotte, 2015- Homage to her mother, Bester. The clothespins, symbols of her domestic work, are arranged to form a crown. |
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Zothile, 2021-During Covid, Muhli had to put their photographic practice on hold.
They turned to painting. |
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| Zamile, Kia Thema, 2016 - the striped blanket is reminiscent of those used in South African prisons during apartheid. To Muholi, the material represents mourning, a way to remember Black people who suffered during apartheid and those who struggle in the present including Black LGBTQIA+ individuals who are brutally murdered daily in South Africa. The title means "I've tried" in isiZulu. |
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| Nolwazi II, Nuoro, Italy, 2015, The titled translates as "Knowledge" and refers to the "pencil test" which was used in racial classification. If the pencil fell out of a person's hair, the person "passed". |
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| Obanzi, Durban, 2020 |
There were a number of other rooms with photos of tender images of same-sex couples.
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| Hompi and Charles Januarie, KwaThema, Springs 2007. |
There were a number of photos from Muholi's first series
Only Half the Picture, 2002-2006. The series documents survivors of hate crimes living across South South Africa. After one of the first times Muholi exhibited the work, there was a lot of antagonism. Muholi made a documentary called "Enraged by a Picture."
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| Hate crime survivor I; Case number, 2004 - survivor of "corrective rape" |
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| Portrait of Zanele Muholi after the "Rose has Thorns" campaign gathering at Constitutional Hill, Johannesburg, 2003. |
There were also photos from her
Brave Beauties series from 2014-en cours, which depicts transgender women and non-binary people who participate in beauty and drag-queen pageants. Muholi also depicts herself in the role of a beauty queen.
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| Candice Nkosi, Durban, 2020 |
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| Self-portrait |
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| Yaya Mavundla I, Parktown, Johannesburg, 2014 |
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| Candice Nkosi, Tsakane, Johannesburg, 2013 |
It was an incredibly powerful exhibit. The photography was very beautiful and Muholi covers some very difficult topics in her work. Her pictures of the victims of gender violence are respectful with very strong messages. Her self portraits using everyday objects to convey the experiences of Black women both during and after apartheid are very strong.
After the exhibit, we stopped for a bite at Kébi, a Syrian restaurant specializing in contemporary versions of Kebi.
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| Part of the menu |
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| The restaurant- quiet at 2:00 p..m. |
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| Kébi to share |
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We stopped around the corner for a coffee and a pastéis de nata at Comme à Lisbonne
(the owner's grandmother's recipe)
We then went to the Mémorial de la Shoah museum to see two exhibits. The first was entitled: Julia Pirotte, Photographe and Résistante. It was a retrospective of around 100 prints by Julia Pirotte (1907-2000) to mark International Women's Day. She was Jewish, communist and in the Resistance. Pirotte, who did not think she would survive the war, took her Leica camera everywhere.
Pirotte is known for her photojournalism during WWII. She was an eyewitness to the internment of Jewish women and children in the Bompard camp; Resistance operations in the South of France; the liberation of Marseille and the immediate aftermath of the Kielce pogrom in Poland in 1946. She continued her photographic work in Poland following the war, documenting workers' living conditions and also photographed farmworkers in Israel.
Julia Pirotte (Golda Perla Diament), born on August 26, 1907, grew up in a poor Jewish family between Końskowola and Lublin, Poland. Her father was a miner. At 17, she was arrested for her activism in the Polish Communist youth movement and spent four years in jail. In 1934, she left Poland to join her sister, Mindla, a refugee in France. On the way, she fell ill and stopped in Belgium where she married the trade unionist Jean Pirotte. She took night classes in journalism and photography in Brussels. In 1938 and 1939, she began her photojournalism career with a study of Polish miners.
In May 1940, after the German occupation of Belgium and the deportation of her husband, Pirotte fled to Marseille. She began working in an aircraft plant and as a photographer on a private beach. In 1942, she was hired as a photojournalist by local publications. She documented the dismal, living conditions in the Vieux-Port slums, the plight of the women and children interned in the Bompard camp and the operations of the maquis. She and her sister joined the Resistance very early on. As a liaison agent for the FTP-MOI group, she smuggled leaflets and weapons. On August 21, 1944, she photographed the liberation of Marseille.
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| Poster for show (Self-portrait, 1943) |
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| Freedom demonstration after the liberation of Marseille, August 29, 1944 |
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| A barefoot boy sitting on the sidewalk under a poster for Tarzan, Marseille, 1942 |
There was a photo of Suzanne Spaak, who came from an upper-class Belgian Catholic family. After reading Julia's articles in trade union magazines, she suggested that Julia study photography and gave her the Leica camera used to take most of the pictures in the exhibit. In 1937, Spaak and her family moved to Paris, in the same building where the writer Colette lived. Her apartment became the meeting point for members of different Resistance groups. Spaak, a resistance member, organized and coordinated efforts to rescue Jewish children. She was arrested by the Gestapo and imprisoned, tortured in Fresnes and shot on August 12, 1944. Yad Vashem awarded her the title of Righteous Among the Nations in 1985.
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Portrait of Suzanne Spaak (Brussels 1905- Fresnes 1944), 1939
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| Mindla Diament (Końskowola 1911-Breslau 1944) at the beach, France 1939-40. |
Mindla, Julia's siter was one of her first models. In 1931, she was arrested for belonging to Poland's Communist youth organisation and sentenced to four years in prison. In 1933, she took advantage of a leave to escape to France. In 1941, she joined the FTP-MOI Resistance network, smuggling weapons and forced documents between Paris and the Unoccupied Zone. She was arrested at a checkpoint and deported to Germany on December 3, 1942. A court in Breslau sentenced her to death and she was guillotined on August 24, 1944. She posthumously received the Croix de Guerre on December 18, 1947.
There were a number of pictures of living conditions of the Bompard Hotel where 150 Jewish German and Austrian nationals and their children were interned starting in 1940. Later, new refugees joined them. Pirotte did a photo series on living conditions in July 1942. A month later, the Jewish women were moved to Camp des Milles before being deported to Auschwitz. Most of the children were handed over to charity organizations and survived.
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| Images from the Bompard Camp, Marseille, France, 1942 |
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| Photos from the Battle of Marseille, August 21, 1944. As a member of the Francs-Tireurs et Partisans (FTP) resistance group, Pirotte was able to photograph the activities of the resistance. |
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| Group with an accordionist in Marseille, the day after V-E Day, May 9, 1945. Freedom demonstration after the liberation of Marseille, August 29, 1944 |
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| A little girl on a ruined street, Warsaw, Poland, 1947 |
After the war, Pirotte returned to Poland. Her brother, Major died in a gulag in the USSR. In 1946, Pirotte was one of the only photographers in Kielce, Poland just after the program. In 1957, she went to Israel to experience life on a kibbutz. Back in Poland, she continued working for the Polish press, but at a much slower pace.
Pirotte took a number of pictures in the aftermath of the antisemitic pogrom in Kielce, Poland in 1946. A mob attacked Holocaust survivors in the town. Forty-two Jews were killed and approximately 80 wounded. This pogrom let too many survivors refusing to return there and spurred their immigration to the British Mandate of Palestine or the United States.
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| Funeral of victims; trucks carrying coffins; wounded victims |
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| Demonstration of young people raising their hands among banners, Poland ca. 1947 |
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| Nurith and Joseph on a tractor at the Ejn Hastofet kibbutz, Israel 1957 |
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Julia Pirotte and Simone Veil at the opening of the travelling exhibit:
Julia Pirotte, A photographer in the Resistance, Paris 1995 |
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Julia Pirotte and her second husband Yefim Sokolsky, (a Polish economist) on the steps of their house.
Poland, ca. 1958-74 (unknown pohotographer). Sokolsky died in 1974. |
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| Julia Pirotte and her sister Mindla (Maria) Diament, France between 1939-40), Unknown photographer |
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| Majer Diament, Julia Pirotte's older brother, Poland 1921. |
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| Itinerary of Julia Pirotte. |
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| Act of sabotage near Gardanne, Bouches-du-Rhône, France, 1944 |
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| Sarkis Bedoukian, Armenian FTP-MOI fighter, member of the Marat group, during the Battle of Marseille, August 21, 1944. He would be killed in front of the prefecture one hour after this picture was taken. |
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| The Vieux Port quarter, Marseille, |
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| Claudine Spaak in front of three pétanque balls, Marseille, 1943 |
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| Edith Piaf, Marseille, France, 1942 |
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| Women of Marseille for the fighters, August 21, 1944 |
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| An elderly man sitting under a newsstand, Israel, 1957 |
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"The New Man, of the Power of the Worker", Warsaw 1947 and Farmer, Poland, 1949.
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| A fighter in Marseille, August 21, 1944 and Mindla Diament, France, ca. 1939-40 |
In the 1980s, Pirotte's photography began gaining recognition and was exhibited in many cities. On February 15, 1996, France awarded her the title of Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres. She died in Warsaw on July 25, 2000.
It was another exceptional exhibit. What a life lived!! She captured key moments in pre-war, WWII and the immediate post-war period in a number of locations. Many of the people photographed did not survive the war, but their memories survive in her photographs.
The final exhibit we saw was: Spirou, Dans La Tourmente de la Shoah. The exhibit was a real eye-opener for us, as we did not know anything about Spirou, the Belgian comic book hero.
In 2008, Émile Bravo wrote Spirou. L'Espoir malgré tout (Hope despite everything). In the book, the fictional character, Spirou meets real-life figures Felix Nussbaum, a German painter and his wife Fella Platek, also a painter, who were deported and murdered in Auschwitz in 1944. The exhibit follows the awakening of Spirou, who observes daily life in Belgium, the persecution of the Jews and the attitude of the Belgians, which runs the gamut from resistance to opportunism, collaboration and resignation. The exhibition features Bravo's original plates, the character Spirou-a fictional witness to the war, the Occupation and the Holocaust- works by Felix Nussbaum and Fella Platek, archival documents and images to illustrate the Second World War in Belgium.
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| Poster for the Exhibit |
Spirou was a weekly created in 1938, whose editor-in-chief, Jean-Georges Evrard, also known as Jean Doisy (1900-1955), was a resistant.
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| Spirou |
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| Story of Spirou and the number of artists who drew him |
Intro to Émile Bravo's
L'Espoir maigré tout. Spirou watches as German troops invade Belgium in May 1940.
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| The four parts of the 2008 book |
The exhibit was set up with a copy of a page from the book (only in French), and then various documents and photos that relate to what is being discussed in the book which follows Spirou through the war.
Belgium in the War
The first section dealt with the invasion of Belgium by German troops on May 10, 1940. With the massacres of civilians in August 1914 still fresh in their minds, millions of Belgians fled in total chaos. After 18 days of fighting, the King surrender in disagreement with the government, which left Brussels on May 17. The Occupation began. The government took up exile in London in October 1940.
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| Notice to resist the invasion |
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| Léopold III reviewing Belgian tanks, May 18, 1940. He ordered the army to surrender after the German breakthrough at Lys, overriding the opinion of Hubert Pierlot's government, which wanted to continue fighting alongside the Allies outside Belgium. Bottom photo: German troops guarding Belgian POWs at Couvin, near the French border, May 16, 1940 |
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| Belgians fleeing |
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| Following the invasion, Belgians fled to the south of France. British troops and Belgian refugees on the Brussels-Louvain road, May 12, 1940. |
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| Thousands fled to France, creating complicated situations in a country that was scrambling to organize its won defence, France 1940. Fleeing civilians hinder Allied resistance, Belgium 1940. |
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| The meeting of Spiro and his friend Fantasio meeting Felix and Felka. In the comic book, Spirou becomes friends with them and witnesses the persecution of the Jews. He helps the clandestine artists until they are deported in 1944. Émile Bravo's book introduces the real life Felix and Felka and their art. |
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| Felix and Felka's ID cards from 1937. On November 28, 1940, the Germans ordered Jews to report to the authorities. A stamp in French and Flemish was affixed to their identity parers. |
Felix Nussbaum was born in Osnabrück northern Germany in 1904. He studied decorative arts in Hamburg and fine arts in Berlin. He was in Rome in 1932, when his Berlin studio was burned down. He took refuge in Belgium, living in hiding during the Occupation before being arrested and deported to Auschwitz on July 31, 1944. He never returned. Felka Platek was born into a Jewish family in Warsaw on November 3, 1899. She moved to Berlin in the early 1920s and studied painting. She met Felix in a class. Most of her paintings were destroyed in the fire in their studio. The couple moved to Brussels. Felka did not obtain the right to stay in Belgium until they got married on November 9, 1937.
Undesirables
During the "phony war", Belgium and France interned German civilians on their soil, considering them "enemy aliens", even though most, like Nussbaum, had fled Nazism. Nearly 13,500 are estimated to have been arrested by Belgian authorities, who asked the French government to "welcome" them in its interment camps. About 7500 men were sent to Saint-Cyprien, women to Gurs. The internment conditions were appalling. Those who had nothing to fear from returning to Belgium, about 2500 people, were repatriated in July and August. The Germans prohibited the repatriation of Jews.
The Saint-Cyprien camp opened in February 1939 to house Spanish refugees. After they left, "enemy aliens" arrested in Belgium were housed there in deplorable conditions. In October 1940, the camp was shut down and the internees were transferred to other camps. He eventually signed a request from camp authorities to be returned to Germany. On the train ride from Saint-Cyprien to Germany, he managed to escape and settled with Felka in occupied Belgium, where they began a life in hiding. His friends supplied them with shelter and art supplies. In July 1944, Felix and Felka were found hiding in an attic. They arrived in Auschwitz on August 2, 1944. Felka was murdered, probably on or about August 2. A week later Felix was murdered at the age of 39.
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| Felix Nussbaum, Self-portrait in the camp, 1940 |
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Prisoners outside their barracks at Saint-Cyprien. Felix Nussbaum is lying down in the first row,
summer 1940. |
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| Antwerp occupied by German troops, May 1940 |
After Germany overran Belgium, General Alexander von Falkenhausen was appointed Governor of Belgium on May 20, 1940. On June 1, the North of France was added to the area under his control. The Belgian police and collaborators assisted the Nazi police in repression of the resistance and deporting of the Jews in Belgian.
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| Poster in Brussels announcing that the Communist party had been outlawed, August 25, 1941 |
Antwerp and Brussels had the largest Jewish populations and were hit with an arsenal of harsh measures starting in the autumn of 1940. When they were forced to wear the yellow star, some Belgians helped hide the Jews. In Flanders, there were two main Flemish collaboration parties who drew inspiration from fascism. In southern Belgium, there was no connection to Germany or fascism. In Wallonia and Brussels, the nationalist currents most favourable to Nazi Germany never managed to attract a large following.
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Léon Degrelle, founder of the Rex fascist movement, was an all-out collaborator. He fought on the Eastern front and ended the war as SS-Sturmbannführer and Volksführer Der Wallonen.
In May 1940, the publisher Jean Dupuis fled the German advance and went to London. He remained there during the war. His sons and son-in-law took over the printing business. In 1943, the Germans ordered them to put one of their men on the Board of directors. They refused. The Journal de Spirou was shut down. Then Jean Doisy had the idea of creating a puppet show to keep the newspaper's characters alive and animate his resistance network. |
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| Jean Doisy, editor-in-chief of Le Journal de Spirou, undated |
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| Drawing for the Théâtre du Farfadet by Jijé, Belgium, undated. The travelling theatre became an ideal cover for the Resistance, saving Jews and carrying out acts of sabotage. |
There was a section on the Persecution of Jews in Belgium. Harsh measures were imposed carried out by Belgian local authorities. From August 15- September 12, 1942, there were six massive roundups of Jews, resulting in the deportation of 4,336 people to Auschwitz. Around 46% of Belgium's Jews died during the Holocaust. There were also organizations which helped Jews go into hiding.
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| Original drawing by Émile Bravo |
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| There were 25,124 Jews and 351 Gypsies deported from the Mechelen transit camp north of Brussels between August 4, 1942 and July 31, 1944. |
There was a section about "Auschwitz: What was Known." The occupation of Belgium deeply shocked Victor Marin, who, although he was not Jewish, was sent on a mission by the Independence Front (a resistance movement) to find out the truth about Auschwitz. He returned after talking to Frenchmen in the Compulsory Labor Service near the Monowitz camp (Auschwitz III) and was convinced that it was a death camp. In March 1943, he delivered his report to the Belgian resistance, which passed it on to the Belgian government-in-exile in London and to the Allies.
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| Victor Marin's real and forced ID cards, Belgium, 1941 |
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| Report of Victor Martin, Belgium 1942/43 |
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| The Triumph of Death (1944), Nussbaum's last work before deportation. |
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| Self-portrait with Jewish Passport, 1942. |
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| Felka Płatek, Portrait of Madame Etienne, 1942 |
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| Portrait of Felka Platek with her arms crossed, 1940 |
After the war,
Le journal de Spirou reappeared successfully.
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| Hey friends... we're here... no. 1 1944, Brussels |
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| Jean Doisy, with his independent Front armband, Brussels, 1944 |
Émile Bravo's compelling work had the message that it is not necessary to fight with weapons and kill someone to be a hero. It is more about being a humanist. "Hope despite everything".
It was a great exhibit, and we learned a lot about Belgium during the war and became acquainted with Spirou!
We wandered a bit more and then headed across the Seine. On Rue Monge, we stopped at Devine? for a bottle of recommended red wine.
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| Devine?-Cave à vins bios & naturels |
Alain made us an appetizer plate of sheep cheese and saucisson noisette (hazelnut sausage) and then an excellent dinner of merlan (a white fish), zucchini, tomatoes, fennel and a green salad. A glass of red wine and a piece of poppyseed strudel for dessert. It was a very full day. Three wonderful exhibits at two excellent museums.
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