Visit to Èze and Drinks at L'hôtel Le Negresco

Thursday February 23 was a very cloudy day with a high of 13C, though it felt quite a bit cooler. We caught a tram to the bus station and took the 11:00 a.m. bus to Èze, a scenic 30 minute ride. Èze is only about 8.5 km northeast of Nice and is a beautiful medieval town perched on a hill above the coast. The population is around 2100. Its inhabitants are known as Ezasques.

It was colonized millennia ago by the Greeks, Romans and also the Moors, who held the area until they were driven out by William of Provence in 973. In 1388, Èze fell under the jurisdiction of the House of Savoy, who built up the town as a fortified stronghold because of its proximity to Nice. It had a turbulent history over the next few centuries. Louis XIV destroyed the walls surrounding the city in 1706 in the War of the Spanish succession. Finally, in April 1860, Èze was designated as part of France by unanimous decision of its citizens.

Èze has been described as an "eagle's nest" because of its location. There are two parts to the town, Èze-bord-de-Mer is on the beach while the medieval town of Èze Village is on the hilltop, 450 metres above the coast. We took the bus to Èze Village and began our climb to the top.

Maps of the village- part near the bus stop

The climb up to the Jardin Exotique (Tropical Garden)

While it was cloudy and foggy, the upside was that the town was not full of tourists (though it was busier that St-Paul-de Vence).

Near the tourist office

Before starting our climb, we passed a footpath that leads to the Sea. It was named after Frederic Nietzsche who walked the 4.2 km trail daily when he was living in the village from December 1883-April 1884 and writing Thus Spake Zarathustra.

Chemin Nietzsche-a hike to the Sea

The start of the path near the sign

We then passed the gate to the Château de la Chèvre d'Or (Château of the Golden Goat) which is actually an entire stretch of the Village, streets and all, bordered by gardens. There are a number of small beautiful guest houses built into the cliff. Nearly all guest rooms have exposed stone, arched windows and wood beams. There are four restaurants in the complex and a swimming pool. It is closed from October to April 6. Walt Disney stayed there numerous times along with many celebrities.

The imposing gates- closed for the winter

Peering in the gate

Chess anyone?

Starting out climb

More buildings that are part of the Golden Goat

One of the guest cabins

A beautiful walk (would definitely be crowded in summer)

Dates back to 1882

Another guest house

One of the more luxurious suites

Welcome crew

Still walking

We passed another fancy hotel called Château Eza, which was the former residence of Prince William of Sweden.

Sign for Château Eza

Hefty price list

We passed the Porte des Maures (The Moors' Gateway), where the Moors invaded the Village in 900.

The Porte des Maures

We passed the Chapelle de la Sainte Croix des Anciens Pénitents blancs (known as the White Penitents' Chapel). It was founded in the 14th century at a time when the plaque was rife. The Chapel was the seat of the White Penitents brotherhood. They were laymen dressed in white robes and hoods, who performed deeds of repentance, helping the sick and the poor.

Chapelle de la Sainte Croix

Flowers and stone

Cherry blossoms

We passed near the Church of Notre-Dame de l'Assomption, consecrated in 1772,

which we would return to.

The Church of Notre-Dame de l'Assomption beautiful blue clock

We then reached the Jardin Exotique d'Èze. There is a 4 euro entrance fee, but it is totally worth it for the panorama of the whole Riviera. There are many cacti and succulent plants that originate from the desert regions of North America, South Africa and Mexico that have coexisted with Mediterranean plants for a hundred years. The Garden owes its creation to the former mayor André Gianton. In 1949, he decided to create a garden with the assistance and design by the agronomist Jean Gastaud. The remains of the medieval fortress destroyed by Louis XIV's soldiers are at the peak of the gardens. Additions to the Gardens were made in 2004.

There were numerous sculptures throughout the Garden, created by Jean-Philippe Richard (b. 1947), who has been sculpting for over 30 years.

Cacti and sculptures

Map of the Garden

Lots of flowers in bloom

Cap Ferrat in the distance

The fog rolling in and out -another sculpure

Gorgeous purple cactus

View of Notre-Dame-de l'Assomption with its blue clock
(two different times on the two faces)

At the peak of the Garden

Beautiful coloured Sea- Èze-bord-de-Mer below and Cap Ferrat in the distance (Apparently one can see the Villa Ephrussi Rothschild (which we visited) on a clear day)

The viaduct

Fog rolling in again

In the 1950s and 1960s, these coastal roads were used as backgrounds for many TV shows and major film, including Alfred Hitchcock's To Catch a Thief with Grace Kelly and Cary Grant.

Coastal roads in films!

The views are breathtaking

Climbing to the ruins

Under a small waterfall

The view of Èze-bord-de-mer

When the fog moved away- view of Cap Ferrat in the distance

There were a number of smaller paths that lead to an area for contemplation with a small fountain and chairs.

After our visit, we stopped for lunch at le Nid d'Aigle just below the Garden. The place was busy and the prices very reasonable. There were not a lot of restaurants open in Èze in February, so this place was buzzing. Everyone was eating outside, though it was chilly on the top of the hill.

With the menu

Lovely spot just below the Garden

Alain with the omelettes

We then descended the hill and stopped in at Notre-Dame de l'Assomption. The outside was influenced by neo-classicism and contrasted to the beautiful baroque interior.

Inside the Church

Very ornate

We made a quick stop in a small cave on the way down and bought a small bottle of mandarin liqueur, a specialty of the area.

Au Pays de La Mandarine, Èze

We were able to catch the 2:20 p.m. bus back to Nice. The ride was very fast and there were fewer stops. Another electric bus for Alain. We were dropped closer to the Old City in about a 20 minute trip. We hopped on the tram for two stops. Bus tickets in and out of the city on certain lines are just 1.50 euros and good for 74 minutes, though return trips are not allowed. Our excursion (round trip with tram connection and the bus to Èze) was just 3 euros each!

This sculpture was near the stop where the bus let us out

We stopped at Hobo for a coffee.

Very nice local café one minute from our apartment

As it was still just mid-afternoon, we decided to go to the Hotel Negresco for a drink. Our friend Myrna had been there last year and suggested we go for a drink and check out the incredible art collection in the Hotel.

Merry Go Round en route

La Ville De Nice

Approaching Le Negresco

The Negresco opened on January 8, 1913. It was designed by Henri Negresco (born Alexandru Negrescu in Romania) (1870-1920) and drew the attention of the international Jet Set. In 1957, the hotel was purchased by Jean-Baptiste Mesnage who entrusted it to his daughter Jeanne Augier (1923-2019), whom had recently married a local lawyer and politician Paul Augier (1912-1995).

Jeanne Augier personally greeted celebrities and started a collection of art and furniture from the 17th century to contemporary times. Madame Augier died in 2019. The Hotel had been under guardianship since 2013, as Madame Augier suffered from Alzheimer's disease. She had been in sole charge of the hotel after her husband's death in 1995. With no heirs, in 2009, she bequeathed the Negresco to a fund, with the intention of protecting her hotel and the rights of its staff in the event of her death. She was an advocate of the disabled, people in difficulty and animal rights. The fund was also given the mission of "easing animal and human suffering." On Bastille Day 2016, when 84 people were killed on the Promenade, the Negresco was used as a field hospital. It is the only luxury hotel in France in private ownership.

We went to the Versailles bar, as another bar area wasn't open in the late afternoon.