Free Tour in Nice- Exploring the City

Friday February 17 was a beautiful sunny day with a high of 14C.  It feels quite warm during the daytime with the sun out, but definitely cools off in the evenings.   We took a 'Free Tour' of the Old City (Vieux Nice) with Julia from Riviera Tours.  The tour started at 11:00 a.m. We met at the fountain in Place Masséna.  There were about 15 people on the tour.  Most were from Germany, with a few folks from the United States and other parts of France.

The square is the largest in Nice and is where seating has been installed for Carnaval events.  Julia told us a bit about the history of Nice.   The Greeks settled the port (known as Nicaia- named after Nike, the Greek goddess of victory) in around 250 BC and were followed by the Romans.  Nice was also part of the House of Savoy which included parts of Italy.  The capital was Turin (where we were in October).  The initial shape of part of this square is similar to those in Turin.  Eventually, Nice became part of France in 1860.  It was nice to marry the history of Nice with that of Turin.

Julia pointed out the seven resin men on poles, representing the seven continents.  They turn different colours at night and are 'in dialogue' with each other, representing communication between different peoples.  The installation is called "Conversation in Nice".

The seven resin statues on the poles by Catalan artist, Juame Plensa, 2007  

 

We walked over to an immense sculpture entitled Neuf Lignes Obliques on the Promenade des Anglais, by French artist Bernar Venet.  It was commissioned to mark the 150th anniversary of the 1860 annexation of the County of Nice by France.  It consists of nine steel beams which meet at their top.  It symbolises the nine valleys of the old County of Nice as well as the surrounding mountains pointing to the sea.

2010 Neuf Lignes Obliques

Julia pointed out a number of trompe l'oeil buildings along the way.  One side of a building had a painted facade--- there was only one real window on that side.

The trompe l'oeil facade

We then went to look at the Opera House.  The building dates back to 1885 following a fire at the former theatre at the same site.  The architect, François Aune was born in Nice.  Studying under Gustave Eiffel, his built an outer shell using traditional stone masonry within which he erected a structure of metallic girders.

Then it was on to the Cours Saleya market.  The market started primarily as a flower market and now has become a large fruit and vegetable, baked goods and other Provencal products market.  It is open every day but Monday, until around 1:30 p.m.

First there are the flowers

Nice in springtime

Lemon and orange plants

Lots of folks out on a beautiful sunny day

The arch leads to the Sea

Beautiful EU event building near the market

Palais de Justice

Older section with tower across from Palais de Justice

Lots of bronze tree sculptures in the city

Julia pointed out that all the signage in the old town has French on top and the Nice dialect (Niçard) historically spoken in Nice, underneath.  Niçard is generally considered a sub-dialect of Provencçal, itself a dialect of Occitan, though some scholars argue that it was more strictly Ligurian.  It is not spoken today, though there is a developing revival of the use of the language.  The Niçard song Nissa La Bella is often regarded as the "anthem" of Nice.

Signage in the Old City

Typical street in the Old City with beautiful coloured buildings

Niccolò Paganini lived in this house for a number of years

The lower part of the white building on the right is considered the oldest surviving building in Nice

View up to a artificial waterfall on Castle Hill

Cathédrale Sainte Réparte in the old city

Julia stopped at an old building with the words "Interna Meliora" which means "Inside is Better"written above the door.  It was a brothel located near a main square.

Julia pointing out the signage above the door: "Interna Meliora"

Adam and Eve sculptures on another building

The Matisse House where Henri Matisse lived in three different apartments in this building. Matisse lived in Nice from 1917-1954.  He moved to Nice because of the beautiful light.

The seaside

Promenade des Anglais named after the English who moved to Nice and financed the first boardwalk

The last stop of our two hour tour was a walk up to the first major lookout en route to the top of Castel Hill.  There was a military citadel from the 11th century to the 18th century. It was destroyed in 1706 by command of Louis XIV.    We did not walk up to the top of Castle Hill, but stopped at a great lookout.

Fantastic views of the city.

On the lookout

View of the beach

The hotels further away

Nice city flag at lookout- Eagle on mountains and water at the bottom of the flag

Jean Klissak-Les Congés Payés, 1979

Group picture with most of the folks from the Tour

We walked down and stopped at Chez Thérésa for a piece of the famous socca. The kiosk with a wood-fired oven,  has been in operation since 1925. Socca is a Niçoise specialty street food shaped like a crepe, made with chickpea flour and olive oil.

We then walked down to the beach for a few photos.

Stony Nice beach, but beautiful Mediterranean Sea

Alain at the Sea

Graffitti on a wall

Other side of Opera house with Statue of Liberty -   on occasion of the renovation of the
Quai des Etats-Unis, 2014

Another view of the sculpture

It was time for some retail therapy and a visit to Molinard, one of France's many famous parfumeries in operation since 1849 with headquarters in nearby Grasse.  It is an entirely family run operation.  Celia Lerouge-Benard, from the fifth generation, is the first woman manager of Molinard.

Molinard store

The family photos and some of the beautiful perfumes 

The salesperson showed us a room with a small Molinard museum, with some older bottles, a short video and some great pictures and posters.

Great 1950s poster for their shaving cream

Old photo of their place in Grasse

 

We continued our walk passing a number of papier mâché Carnaval sculptures.

Hello!

We stopped to get some olive oil at Alziari, in operation since 1868

Alain in the store

Oils and other treats

City Hall

Memorial plaques

We stopped to get a jellied fruit bar

Then it was coffee time at Café Indien, where we had an excellent coffee yesterday.  This time the owner was there doing some roasting at the back of the store.  He told us he was the third generation of the family that had taken over the business in the 1970s.  It had been a coffee house since 1927.   

Back of the café

The present owner whom we chatted to

Alain

The woman at the counter recognised us from the other day and wanted to know if we would be back on Saturday.  The coffee is excellent and very reasonably priced.  1.50 euros for an espresso and 1.70 euros for a noisette (espresso with a touch of milk), which Alain orders.   

Then wine time- we got a nice bottle of Crozes-Hermitage

Then we went for a walk on the Promenade de Anglais.

Late afternoon light in Nice

Beautiful light on the sculpture

 Chair at sunset on the beach

We stopped at the Tourist Office to get some info on a few day trips we want to take.

Very large tourist office

We walked back to the apartment as the sun was setting.  The seven men on the poles were lit up and having a conversation.

Conversation in Nice

Getting ready for a Carnaval event

We had a short rest and then headed for dinner at Acchiardo Restaurant, a few minutes away.  It is a family restaurant recommended by the owner of Hobo Café and our Airbnb.   It opened in 1927, and is operated by a fourth generation young man who greeted us warmly when we arrived.  He told us that the 5th generation is already two years old.  It is very popular with locals as well as tourists.  There were a number of small well-lit rooms with stone walls.  We had a seat in the wine cellar where the family sold homemade wine until 2004.  We had an excellent, very relaxing dinner.

The great grandmother (pictured on the front of the menu)

Seated in the beautiful wine cellar

We shared an appetiser of panisses (chick pea flour chips) with tomato basil sauce

Fabulous food and decor- Alain had lamb chops

I had dorade with a beautiful tomato sauce and we both had haricots vertes

Three sorbets for dessert- lemon, melon and mandarin

I had a glass of a lovely Merlot and Alain had a glass of Malbec.

Looking back in the room as we were leaving

Lighted wall with bottles on the way out

Busy front room (also a nice bar on the left side)

Outside of the restaurant

It was a wonderful first full day in Nice.   The location of our apartment is superb and it is very quiet.  Highly recommend staying in the Old Town near to restaurants, markets, stores, museums and the Beach.  We have been thrilled to talk to so many third and fourth generation folks running family businesses.  Coffee, olive oil, perfumes and restaurants.