Arriving in Lyon!

Monday March 6 was a travel day.  It was sunny with a high of 11C in Lyon.  We said a fond farewell to Marseille and walked to the Gare St-Charles (main train station) to catch the 9:46 a.m. train to Lyon.  

We noticed a sign about the severe disruptions of service planned for March 7.
Very glad we were travelling on March 6. 

The train was about 33 minutes late, but once we departed, it was a very pleasant 1 hour and 45 minute trip to Lyon.  We later got an email stating that because the train was more than 30 minutes late, we would get a refund of 25% of our fare! Incroyable--just imagine if Via Rail had to implement a similar policy!

We took a taxi to our Airbnb which is in the City Centre near the Hotel de Ville (City Hall) on Place Tobie Robatel (love the name).  Eric, the husband of the host who was out of town, met us outside the apartment at 12:15.   We had a great cab driver who pointed out some of key sites we passed on our 10 minute drive. We both said "WOW", as we passed beautiful buildings and crossed the Rhône.

Lyon is the third largest city in France, with a population of around 550,000.  As it commands a strategic spot at the confluence of the Rhône and the Saône Rivers, Lyon's favourable position lead to its being settled by the Romans in 43 BC.  They named it Lugdunum.  Lyon became a major economic hub during the Renaissance.  It is also France's gastronomic capital, known for its cuisine and historical and architectural landmarks that include a number on the UNESCO World Heritage List.  Lyon was historically an important area for the production and weaving of silk and is where the Lumière brothers invented the cinematograph.  

We are very centrally located between the two rivers on the Presqu'île peninsula, which is the cultural and commercial heart of Lyon (the1er arrondissement). Vieux Lyon is just a few minutes away across the Saône.  Our apartment is on the second floor (third in Canada).  Eric helped us with our luggage and showed us around the apartment and provided us with an excellent map of the city.

Living Room and dining area with large window, sofa, and table

                            Kitchen when one enters apartment, with washing machine, toaster, microwave,                                                                        

induction stove top, kettle, fridge, and lots of dishes.

Very modern bathroom with large shower

Bedroom is in the loft up the stairs

Outside of our apartment building

We decided to pick up the usual milk, yogurt etc. at a nearby supermarket and then get a coffee.  We immediately became enamoured with the city.

Views of Lyon in the bright sun

Walking beside the Saône

Another view

We passed the first of the many trompe l'oeil paintings on buildings done by an artists collective called Cité Création, that has been making murals since 1978 in a number of cities all over the world.  They are based in Oullins (Greater Lyon).  

La Bibliothèque de La Cité (The City Library), a large bookcase, featuring
300 writers from Lyon and the region

We went to Diploid, listed as one of the best spots in Lyon for coffee.  They were very busy serving lunch, so we just got a takeout espresso and noisette.  Alain said it was the best coffee of the trip so far.

Sign for Diploid

Menu inside the café

A nearby supermarket with a big sign for "Green Meat"....

We took the provisions back to the apartment and then headed out to the Tourism Office, which is about a 20 minute walk.

We passed the Breizh Café, which has wonderful Breton galettes.  The restaurant started in Tokyo over 25 years ago by Bertrand Larcher and his wife and mixes French and Japanese food cultures.  We often pass its Paris location, which is always busy.  We decided to return for an early dinner, as the restaurant was quite large.

Outside in the early afternoon sun

We passed Eglise Saint-Nizier.  Its name refers to Nicetius of Lyon, a bishop of the city during the 6th century.  Building of the church began in the 14th century and was only completed in the 19th century.  It contains a variety of architectural styles, ranging from the Neo-Gothic spire to the classical Renaissance façade.  In 1998, it was inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List along with other historic buildings in Lyon.

Église Saint-Nizier

Lots of great architecture

Poster for a film series

We then entered the Place des Jacobins, a large square with an impressive fountain, surrounded by beautiful buildings. The fountain dates back to 1865, and represents four Lyon artists housed in a temple of Art; an architect for the 16th century; an engraver for the 17th century; a sculptor for the 18th century; and a painter for the 19th century.

Fountain at Place des Jacobins 

Another view- (the architect)

We walked down to the main square- Place Bellecour.  With 15 acres, it is the largest pedestrianized square in Europe! It is where the Tourism Office is located.

Ferris Wheel in the Place Bellecour square (operates during the winter months)

In one corner, there was a memorial to those who were imprisoned and died during WWII.  The inscriptions list the internment and concentrations camps in France, Germany and Poland.

Memorial in one corner of the square

Inscriptions of the camps

Bellecour is a huge dusty red square--
view of Basilica of Nore-Dame-de-Fourvière at the top of the Fourvière hill.

Flowers by the Rhône

The rivers are wonderful-- reminds us of the Seine, but they actually look clearer and are wider.  
Lots of beautiful buildings on both rivers

Alain on a bridge crossing the Rhône

Moi aussi

Palais de la Mutualité (gorgeous building)

We wanted to check out Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, located across the Rhône not far from the Part-Dieu main train station.  Paul Bocuse (1926-2018) was a French chef based in Lyon who was known for the high quality of his restaurants and his innovative approaches to cuisine.  He was one of the most prominent chefs associated with nouvelle cuisine, which stresses the importance of fresh ingredients of the highest quality.  The term was first used in 1969.

Mural of Paul Bocuse across from the Halles

Outside of Les Halles

In 1859, Lyon opened its first indoor food market in a large metallic structure in the centre of the city.  100 years later, the city decided to build a new indoor market representative of its commitment to gastronomy.

In 1971, Les Halles was opened in La Part-Dieu neighbourhood close to Lyon's main train station.  Extensive renovations took place in 2004, resulting in 13,000 square metres of food vendors over three floors.  The final touch was when Paul Bocose added his name to the title of the market.

We had not been sure as to whether Les Halles would be open on Monday, but the Tourist Office said that it would be.  Unfortunately, there was only a small number of the 48 vendors' shops open.  We did buy some cheese and some vegetables, but most of the stalls were boarded up.  It was a bit of a hike and the food was a bit pricey.  We enjoyed our walk to Les Halles and got a sense of the place, but are not sure we will make the hike back.  We are going to go to a farmers' market near us on Tuesday March 7.

Cheeses and wines

Charcuterie

Candied fruit

Crossing a different bridge-- restaurants on boats below

Then it was back to Breizh Café for an early dinner.  We hadn't had lunch except for a bit of cheese and bread when we first got to the apartment and we were hungry and a bit tired.

Lovely spot

We ordered two galettes.  Alain had egg and chorizo and I had a wonderful egg, goat cheese and fresh vegetable galette.  We ordered two glasses of excellent Brittany cider and after dinner bought a bottle to take back to the apartment. 

 

Alain and his galette and cider

Yum--- artichokes, egg, goat cheese and other vegetables

We walked back to the apartment.  Our first impressions of Lyon have all been positive.  We are wondering why we hadn't visited before.  Lots to explore in this beautiful city.  Everyone we have met has been very proud to live here.